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You've been saving. You've played about a hundred guitars.
You know what you like and what you don't like. You've
considered the style of your playing. You've even thought
about where you'll be in five years and what you'd like
to be able to play. Now that you've narrowed it down
to a few instruments, how do you make the final decision?
What questions remain before you open your wallet?
Probably the most important thing left to do is to
approach this decision in much the same way you would
buy a car. A proverbial kick to the tires is in order.
Now, WAIT, that's not an invitation to abuse an instrument,
especially one of ours. But you should apply the same
deliberate thought and thorough review as you would
when buying a car. Here are a few thoughts for you:
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When a guitar has been under-humidified, a common
problem is cracking at the top seam.
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1) Check the construction and general condition of
the guitar
Examine the seams of the guitar. Take special care
to look at how the neck joins the body. Does the seam
look clean? Check all around the sides of the guitar
where the top and back meet the sides. The seams should
all be tight and clean.
Look over the surface of the guitar as well. There
should be no warps, ripples, or bulges. You can gently
knock on the top and back of the guitar to listen for
rattles that might indicate a loose brace.
Determine if the top is solid or laminate. A solid
top offers, by far, a superior tone but at a greatly
increased price. The woods appropriate for solid tops
are rare in commercial timbering; only about 1% of all
that is harvested. Of those woods available, they must
be quarter sawn in order to be used for instrument making.
Now consider that some woods are more highly respected
than others due to their resonance. Lastly, many of
the woods most highly respected are now endangered species.
Those factors alone account for the increased cost of
solid tops. Laminates are thin layers of wood that are
glued together, usually crossing the grains. By nature,
they are much stronger than solid woods, but don't have
the resonance of solid tops. While laminate top guitars
offer strength and a cost benefit, they cannot stand
up in the tone department to solid top guitars.
An easy way to determine whether a guitar's top is
solid or laminate is to look at the edge of the guitar's
top at the soundhole. Follow the grains of the wood
across the face to the soundhole. If the grains appear
consistent all the way across the edge, you have a solid
top guitar. Keep in mind that most painted, heavily-stained,
or other method that would prevent you from seeing the
grain at the soundhole usually infers a laminate top.
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Notice how the grain runs through the entire
top. This is a solid top guitar.
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Notice how the "lines" seem to run
sideways, not up and down. This indictaes a laminate
top.
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Laminates can be used for the sides and back of the
guitar without as much effect on the instrument's sound
or value. Laminate sides and backs are a great way to
save a little money in mid-priced instruments. To determine
whether you have laminates on the sides or back, look
inside the soundhole to find distinctive grain features.
Now look on the outside of the instrument for the same
feature. If it's not there, you've got a laminate.
The guitar's finish oftentimes can give clues to the
value of the instrument as well. High quality finishes
are usually clear, uniform in gloss, and display sharply-focused
highlights. Low quality finished tend to be thick, produce
rounded corners at the joints and seams, and while bright
in appearance tend not to show the beauty of the wood
with much clarity. The reason high quality finishes
are thin is that it requires great skill to apply a
finish coat thin and then buff it out without buffing
through it. Mass produced guitars simply cannot afford
this kind of attention to detail that smaller run or
hand built guitars do.
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