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Winter seems to be the toughest time for guitars, fiddles
and other wood instruments. Outdoor cold temperatures,
indoor sources of concentrated heat, and indoor low
humidity are the main concerns.
Most brochures that come with new instruments will
cover cold weather care. It is important to read the
information to avoid any problems with your instrument.
Extreme cold temperatures are bad for an instrument,
especially instant contact, such as when an instrument
is taken outside without a case. Finish cracking is
almost guaranteed, because when the finish meets the
cold air it chills and shrinks faster than the wood
underneath. (One customer told of pulling a guitar out
of the case in the cold and seeing the cracks in the
finish instantly appear all along the top, back and
sides of the guitar.)
Indoor sources of heat such as radiators or heat vents
can cause the finish to soften or glue seams to open.
Space heaters can also cause scorching or melting of
finish or plastic bindings and pickguards.
Low humidity is the most common problem. If your house
is not humidified in the winter you should have a humidifier
in your instrument or case. Low humidity is not as extreme
a condition as those listed above, but it will affect
the instrument and possibly damage it. Guitar manufacturers
maintain a humidity level of around 45% (it varies a
little from one builder to the next.) It's a good level
to try and maintain.
If the wood gets too dry it might crack. Wood shrinks
across its grain when it dries. The soundboard is the
most likely part of an instrument to be damaged, and
the back next likely. Braces that run inside across
the top and back don't allow them room to breath much
- to shrink and swell with changes in humidity. On violins,
the saddle (the piece of ebony inlaid at the bottom
of the soundboard) can cause a crack if the soundboard
dries and shrinks.
You can check for the effects of unusually dry conditions
by: 1) feeling for fret ends sticking out along the
side of the fingerboard. 2) on a flattop guitar, looking
across the soundboard in front of the bridge to see
if it has sunk. 3) check for action that has gotten
lower 4) again on a flattop guitar (or mandolin) sight
along the edge of the fingerboard form the peghead to
see if it curves up the meet the body and then drops
again to the soundhole. 5) with a violin or other string
instrument, listen for an uncommon thinness or raspiness
in the sound, which can occur with a dry instrument.
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